Know About Shooting Line Etiquette

For those that are new to tournament archery and for those old yet in need of reminding it is a good thing to go over Shooting Line Etiquette and how we should behave while competing against others. In most games that involve a community of people rules and norms are needed that help the game proceed smoothly and to the benefit of everyone. In tournament archery there is a set of rules that dictate how we ought to manage ourselves on and around the shooting line. Depending upon the formality of a particular tournament the rules may run from lax to rigid, and it is best if you recognize the different situations. What I will discuss here are the rules and norms that relate to MSAA events mainly, but  can be related to most archery tournaments in general. 

When arriving at an archery tournament the best advice is to get there early and prepare, not only for yourself but to get your gear in place and put away so that you do not disturb others near the start of shooting. No one can blame those who get there a moment before due to traffic or something unforeseen, but it is a struggle to get ready under such circumstances and a diversion to those whose thoughts are on competing. It is best to get your gear on the rack as soon as you can and take the reminder of the time to either visit or mentally prepare. 

Listen carefully when the tournament official goes over the rules. He or she will explain not only what the general rules are but will also define for you what the line signals are going to be. The line signals are very important and are really the focus of this article. 

There may be some variance in line signals and that is what you have to listen for when tournament instructions are being given. Generally it goes something like the this. The first signal brings the A line up - those when indoors who have their targets on the bottom of the bale and those when outdoors who have agreed to shoot first. Now the first signal is just that, a signal to bring those shooters up to the line - but it is not a signal to then start shooting. The signal to start shooting is the next one after the signal to come to the line. These signals might be oral signals or they might be sounded with a horn or whistle. For instance, orally the first signal to the A line would be "line up!" and the signal to begin shooting would be just that - "begin shooting!". If a whistle or horn were being used the A line up signal might be a single blast and then the signal to start shooting might be two blasts. The important point here is to not start shooting after you have heard the A line up signal and to wait until you hear the begin shooting signal. If you shoot after only hearing the line up command you may forfeit those arrows or may have to march down and pull what you have shot while everyone watches and gets to know you a little better!

As I have said, once the begin shooting signal has been given you can start shooting, and can continue to shoot until done shooting the allotted number of arrows or time allowed has expired. Once the tournament official recognizes that everyone is finished shooting, or that the allotted shooting time has expired, he or she will signal the B line up either orally or with a horn or a whistle. Again, as with the A line, these folks are not to shoot until they hear the next signal to begin shooting. Once the B line has finished shooting the clear signal is given which indicates that the shooting end is finished and shooters may now move to score their arrows. Orally this might be "all clear" or with a horn or whistle might be three blasts. 

Another important aspect of line etiquette is how to step into or out of the line when others are actively shooting. Let us say for instance that you finish shooting early and would like to step away (this is allowed) but don't want to disturb others in doing so. It is always good manners to never step away while the shooter on either side of you is at full draw and is focusing on the target - this is simply not done and if you see anyone doing this please gently remind them not to. Likewise, in a less formal shooting situation (where shooters are not brought to the line together to begin with) you must not step into a line where the shooter on either side is shooting. Basically stated do not step in or out of a line when the shooter on either side of you is at full draw. 

Is there a best time to step in or out of a line when others around you are shooting? Absolutely! The very best time in my opinion is right after the shooters on either side have shot the arrow that you have been waiting on before stepping in or out.

Here is my logic. Timing your entrance or departure right after an arrow is shot is the best time because mentally speaking the shooting event for the shooters around you are over and they have yet to prepare mentally for the next. What I mean here is that for many that shoot tournament archery there is a mental program or sequence that they go through in their minds to get ready for their next shot. In their minds they might be running through a list that involves form, aiming, and release. Your stepping in or out during this sequence ought not rattle these shooters, and your doing so is completely legitimate and acceptable, but for the sake of knowing the best time it is food for thought. 

In all other things it is important to remember that you are closed in tight with many other shooters while you all are competing. Do not be chatty, and do not rant when you personally shoot a poor shot. Sometimes it is hard not to remark or complain out loud when on the line and things are going badly. It is important that you learn though how to make a shake of the head enough and to then just move on, not only for those around but for yourself to help get back into the game.

T. Rose

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Shooting at Outdoor Target Tournaments

Next to hunting shooting my bow outdoors is my favorite archery activity. There is something very satisfying about shooting arrows over a long distance into a multi-colored target. For folks like me the MSAA offers a complete outdoor target tournament calendar featuring the State Target (900 Round), State Field, and State FITA tournaments. Of course there is a knack to shooting these shoots, and much that we all can do to prepare.

Here is what I have learned over the several years that I have shot these events: 

Get your bow set up early. Shooting outdoors brings its own challenges, there is the weather, and there is the weather. It might be raining, windy, or sweltering. You have got to be ready. Typically a bow set up for outdoors shooting will have more poundage set than less and will be shooting slender arrows with very small vanes. 

Put as much poundage on as you are comfortable with, doing this will flatten the trajectory of the arrow. A flat trajectory means that a small mistake might not take you out of the gold (center of the target). Moving the poundage up also might mean the difference in arrow clearance under the scope or pin. If your poundage is too low you might not have enough clearance as you bring the sight down for the longest shots – this is especially a concern for FITA shooting where the longest shot is 90 meters (~98.5 yards). 

Get a good set of slender carbon arrows. I use ACC 3-28’s, although there are many others nowadays to choose from. On those arrows put the smallest vane possible, I use 1.5 inch, but you can go even smaller. With a good slender arrow and a small vane the wind will have a smaller effect on arrow flight. Make sure that the vanes are secure to the shafts. Make sure that all of your nocks are in perfect condition, and if any are dinged replace them. You might think that this is a finer point, but I can attest to the fact that a dinged nock will cause inaccuracies – especially at the longer distances. Make sure your arrow points are secure. I was shooting the best FITA of my life and mysteriously sent the first arrow of the last end at 70 meters over the top of the butt. Turns out I forgot to look at my arrow points after the end before and one point was missing. I not only dropped the points for the missed arrow but dropped several more while mentally trying to recover from the mysterious and unexpected miss. 

Bring extra arrows. A couple of year’s back I was placed on a butt with a couple of other very good shots. We spent the afternoon dinging each other’s arrows and at the end of the day I had 3 dead ACC’s on the ground and several nocks shot off. 

As always make sure your string and harness are in good condition, and if you have got a D-loop make sure it is tuned with the string and peep, so that the peep comes around without repeated adjustment (if you are not using a device to position it with). Shooting outdoors is an iron man competition. Not only must you maintain your focus but also you must do so for 4 or 5 hours. If you have to fiddle with your bow before every shot the mental impact after 60 or 70 arrows will start to show. Get the peep set so it turns out right on; get that D-loop set so that you don’t have to fiddle with it a bunch. 

As always, make sure that everything is tight. In the rain, wind, and heat things will change, make sure that you have got a good start by getting everything snug. 

Shoot a lot. Shoot to get the kinks of your setup worked out. It usually takes me several days to get things just right. Shoot to build strength and endurance. At a 900 Round 102 arrows get shot, take into consideration a few letdowns and you have got a long day of tense muscles. Build your strength, so that in the end you can take complete advantage of the closer distances because your stamina will get you there. Shoot in all kinds of weather – especially in the wind. Personally, the wind un-nerves me, does it you? It is tough to hold on and on a windy day back tension becomes more of a curse than a savior. Practice in the wind. 

Number your arrows and shoot all of them in practice. Number them in such a way that you will not necessarily catch a glimpse of the number while loading or shooting each one. I number mine on the opposite side of the cock feather, away from my face. Not knowing the number of an arrow before you shoot it will help you more subjectively evaluate the arrow. Find those arrows that are not grouping and repair them or give them to your kids. A lot of times if an arrow is straight it is the nock that is either damaged or simply will not tune, or it is the vanes with a re-fletch as the answer. Sometimes you can tune the arrow by turning the nock some fraction of a turn. At any rate, do the work required to get your arrows to group. 

Shoot at every distance that you are going to be competing at. Don’t think that since you are having the most trouble at 60 yards that you can just set your focus there and then expect the other distances to be ready on tournament day. Practice each distance just about the same and then the attitude that you will encounter at each on tournament day will not be a complete surprise. 

Remember to approach your practice with a goal in mind. Work on form and not aiming, or the other way around. Maybe shoot a round and keep score, or maybe just work on conditioning and execution. Shoot in relation to the tournament date as it approaches. If the tournament is still some distance off maybe you should be working on the elements and not so much on aiming. If the tournament is coming around shoot for score and work on your aiming. Work on your shot sequence – what are the reminders that you are using to get your form set up before you start aiming? For me it is draw with back tension, low shoulder, and relaxed arms and shoulders – then it is aim, aim, aim. Work on little reminders that will help you out of a slump, or a bad shot. Talk to yourself in practice and bank away those ideas that will help boost your confidence. 

Work on the tournament tension that you expect to encounter and learn to use it to your advantage. As you are getting close to the day end your sessions on a high note, and don’t end them in frustration. Most athletes rest the day, or even a couple of days, before competition. This rest helps them become more eager and ready for the tournament day. 

As with any tournament come prepared. Bring your tools, sun protection, a chair, and anything else you might think that you will need. One shooter that I know of would bring wipes to keep his hands clean. Avoid anything oily or greasy, and remember if you are planning on it for tournament day you had better have integrated it into your practice routine or at least have thought very carefully about what it is you are bringing or using. 

Drink lots of water and take time for a snack. Stay with mild foods. Think about your bathroom routine. There is nothing worse than the distraction caused by having to deal with nature in the middle of a Round. If there is anything that you can do to mitigate the effects of nature do so, and plan ahead, but remember, you have to stay hydrated. The effects of running dry are well documented and you will pay the price if you do not take a preventative approach to not drying out. 

On tournament day make sure that you listen while the rules are explained and question an official with any concerns before you start. Get your head on and stay loose before beginning to shoot. Once you start shooting try to developed a rhythm and stay with it. I am not suggesting that you force it, but get settled into a rate of shooting that is regular from arrow to arrow. It has been well documented that shooting with a rhythm results in higher scores. 

Also, take a look at the article posted here on shooting the State Indoor. It has got some good advice on what your attitude should be while shooting and how to handle distractions. 

Good luck and I will see you outdoors! 

T. Rose   

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Try It with Back Tension

When I learned how to release an arrow using back tension my personal enjoyment from the sport of archery increased not only because I shot better, but because I also shot more naturally. Back tension releasing simplifies the shot process by minimizing the mental struggle between holding, aiming, and triggering the release. Through muscle memorization the back tension process is imprinted and when then done correctly requires only that the shooter focus on aiming. Focusing on one thing at any one time is the best of all possible worlds. I firmly believe that if you are not already shooting your bow using back tension you are missing out on what may be the number one form factor that will make you a better shot.

You do not need to be an expert to learn and use back tension. You do need to be ready to relearn and go through some initial awkwardness that any new form element brings. If you stick with it the reward will be great – and that is a promise!

Back tension is a simple method that will help you to minimize arrow release anticipation and will ultimately make your best shots a complete surprise when released. Back Tension is also a great way to combat and keep away target panic that is associated with release anticipation. The whole point of back tension is to release the arrow without anticipation and without the interference of the muscle groups nearest those points that interact with the bow. The key to using back tension is to release the arrow unconsciously while you are consciously aiming.  

An important step to take before going about the mastering of back tension is the setting of your bow to the proper draw length. This can be roughed in by the shop but the fine tuning of the draw length is up to you and really must be done to get the most out of back tension. The idea is that the muscles in the center of your back really do not have much of a contraction range and will not go far either way. If your draw is too long you will be stretched out and will have no room to contract the muscles further, if you are too short your form will be scrunched up. 

Try this: using proper form (low shoulder, consistent grip, consistent anchor) draw the bow back and find the spot where you can rock the muscles between your shoulder blades (whether you are back to full draw or not). If you are not in that muscle rocking window you need to get there by twisting (or untwisting) your bow's string or changing out the cams. I adjust so that I am forward of the rocking point I mentioned and can tell when I'm too short because my front shoulder feels very awkward (I might be 4 or 5 twists of the string beyond the awkward feeling point). When adjusted just so I get a firmly locked in feeling front and back and shoot much better than when otherwise not in proper draw adjustment.

Any release can be shot using back tension. I learned back tension using a hand held trigger release (not a very good one either). In my basement I set up a 12-yard range and started shooting. Since I was not working on aiming, and understood the importance of working on only one form element at a time (back tension) I did not put a target on the butt and was not concerned with where the arrows themselves were hitting (as long as they did not bounce off the concrete wall next to the bag!). When I drew the bow I focused on the muscles in the middle of my back and loaded them with the tension related to the holding of the bow weight. Once at full draw I completely let go of the tension in my hands, arms, and shoulders, and as a result my back muscles had everything on them. This relaxation naturally causes the further contraction of the back muscles, which is key – relax those muscles! This relaxation is a very important step. If the hands, arms, and shoulders are not relaxed it is that much harder to transmit the effect of the contraction of the back muscles to set the release off. Then focusing on a continuous push-pull action my release hand would rotate to the point that it interfered with my thumb (or hand) and then set my release off - a complete surprise! The push-pull action is the pushing of the bow handle forward and pulling of the release hand back – both done consistently and smoothly. 

I have also explained back tension with this analogy - if there were a point to tearing a reasonably thin piece of plywood down the middle (if a sensible way to grip it were provided) how would you do this? Certainly the hands simply do not have the strength, nor do the forearms. Perhaps some folks might manage it using their upper arms but most would probably have to get the muscles of the back and shoulders involved. Gripping the plywood and pulling it apart down the middle (using opposing forces) is a good way to think of using back tension with a bow.

I repeated as explained above consciously over several days and weeks until I felt like it was programmed into my muscle memory, only then did I put up a target face and started to practice aiming. 

An important point here is that the trigger, or release actuation, is not set off by the fingers, or muscles anywhere near the release itself. The arrow release is triggered by the rotation of the hand (especially a hook release) or the interference (especially a trigger release) that the back muscles cause as they move the limbs into position. The result ought to be a complete surprise, if it is not than back tension is not being done correctly (or at least to its optimum). The surprise comes in because all of the fine motor muscles of the hand are not sensing the release as they would when you mentally decide to trip the trigger (not using back tension), instead all of the work is being done by muscle groups far removed. Your best shots are going to be the ones that shock you with their degree of surprise, and you will become a back tension master when each shot is a complete surprise and you learn to let that surprise be a good thing.

For some folks not knowing when the arrow is going to go off is just too much to handle, and no matter how hard they try, or how much they understand, back tension is simply not an option for them. The surprise of the release can be unsettling unless you've mastered the act enough that it is programmed not to be so. I often manage back tension somewhere in between complete surprise and complete anticipation. I do this especially when I am not practicing as much as I should be. What happens is that I know just about when the arrow is going to go off and when it does not I get anxious and consciously either pull through or let down. Clearly consciously pulling through is a bad thing, my head should be on aiming and not on releasing when I am staring down the spot, and excessive letting down brings on fatigue because a let down arrow is essentially a shot arrow. Point is that my head is into it and it should not be. Back tension is all about trust and confidence, and both come only with practice. 

Once mastered back tension should not get in your way when you have run through your pre-shot sequence, have drawn the bow back, and are aiming. Back tension should be programmed to the extent that the mind should not wander to the release, bow hand, or any other aspect while aiming, and should remain firmly placed on the target. 

You can recognize when someone is doing a decent job of using back tension, upon release their bow will jump forward and their release hand will naturally fall back - both of these actions in relation to how the back muscles were loaded with the tension of the bow. Nearer to butt 1 on the tournament line you will see a lot of this going on.

Now, back tension is not a panacea, or an answer for everything, and without the other form elements worked out (open stance, consistent grip, low shoulder, consistent anchor, etc.) it will not make as big a difference that it otherwise would. That is why it is so important to work on all the elements in their own time, bringing all together in the end when it comes time to just practice aiming.

Another aspect of back tension that makes sense to me is the idea of using opposing forces to shoot the bow versus the idea that you hold the bow up and pull the trigger. From a physical standpoint it is obvious why opposing forces aids in stability versus the use of a single muscle group positioned on one side of the body to hold the bow up. Spread the load and minimize the tension in all aspects.

T. Rose  

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Back Tension explained by George Ryals IV

What really is back tension?

Many shooters are mystified with the notion of “back tension.” For many shooters it is this mysterious feeling you get in your back when your shoulder blades are rotated, tucked, pulled, and squeezed into just the right contorted position that enables the elusive “perfect shot”. For others it requires a medical degree and a body chart to locate ambiguous muscle groups that must be flexed and pinched at just the right interval while poking at your release trigger. Ultimately, it is a confusing distraction that takes our mind off aiming, and aiming is the grand wizard of tasks that must be completed without distraction to complete the perfect shot.

All kidding aside, “back tension” can be simplified as a dynamic tension that is set up at the beginning of the draw and it is continues through the release of the arrow. I feel that it is second only to aiming as the key fundamental part of shooting form that generates accuracy and consistency. Proper setup and use of this tension can help you shoot longer by relieving fatigue. It will make you a more stable shooter by relieving muscle tension in the arms and hands. Dynamic tension also reduces the amount of muscle groups involved in the shot. This will diminish muscle tremors that can cause sudden misses, quick shots, and general unsteadiness.

What does it feel like?

Try this exercise. Make a bow drawing motion (without a bow in your hands). For most people it is easier to isolate the back without the weight of the bow or the tension of the string. While making a drawing motion, make sure your hands, forearms, and shoulders are relaxed as they can be. Actually let your hands dangle loosely as you do this. Keep your back straight, head up and turned towards the target, and straighten your bow arm, but keep the elbow unlocked. As you reach full draw, you will be able to feel your back working to hold full draw. Keep your elbow high. The lower your elbow gets, the greater your chances become for your back transferring the pressure to your arms and hands. Loss of tension is usually unrecoverable without letting down and restarting the shot. Leaning back at full draw is also another common cause of tension loss. I had this problem and it is hard to fix because you can’t feel it. Stick a bow square or an arrow in your waistband and let it go down into your pant leg next to your leg. Usually an arrow works best because of its length. It will remind you to stay straight as it stops you from leaning as you draw. This feels weird, but it does help.

This is the critical juncture in the whole technique. If your hands and arms take over, you will increase your shot time and will lose stability. The longer you stay with the shot the more unstable you will become, almost guaranteeing a miss. You can test this feel just as you did above by going through the same motions except make your fists super tight. You will be able to feel a diminished amount of tension in your back and if you keep your hands balled tight enough, you can feel the shaking and muscle tremors caused by this loss of tension.

How do you shoot a bow with well placed tension?

Dynamic tension is a simple push pull technique. You need to feel a balance between the push and the pull. Imagine drawing a bungee cord and you are stretching it between your bow arm and your drawing hand. Dynamic tension or the push pull effect stretches the cord. Most pro shooters set up this dynamic tension when they raise the bow to the target. This stages the proper muscle groups. The muscles that you use to draw the bow are the very same muscles that you use to aim the bow, and the back muscles will give you the most stability. I feel that it is virtually impossible to reach your full potential as a shooter unless you draw in this manner because it is extremely difficult to draw the bow with one muscle group and then, at full draw, switch to the proper back muscle group. If you draw it with arm and hand power, you are doomed to aim it with arm power, which is incredibly unstable. As you reach full draw you should pull the bow into the stops and continue to apply mild pressure as you align your peep with the scope and the dot with the X. Once everything is centered and anchored in the center of the target, You will then commit to the shot and the release opens in time.

How do you shoot a release while using Dynamic Tension?

You have reached full draw and aligned the whole shebang up with the X. Now what do you do? Well the release better go off pretty soon or you will pull the wheels off of the bow. With a trigger style release, usually you will need a slightly stiffer trigger than you are used to. This will let you build strong tension with your finger on the trigger without risk of pre-fires. I allow my wrist muscles and the tendons in the back of my hand to slightly relax as I pull. This causes my hand to yield on the release. There is no real perceivable movement, but it is just enough to change the pressure on the trigger, and the shot is released. A rotational style release works in the same manner. When you commit to the shot and your tension builds allow your hand to soften or yield on the release and that is just enough to change the attitude of the release handle to make it fire.

Who do you know if it is right?

This is where the mystery is revealed. If your elbow is above the plane of your shoulder, you are pushing and pulling, and there is no undue tension in your hands or arms, you have to be doing it right. Your bow will feel easier to hold, and your sight will hold tighter on the dot. If you feel like you are working too hard you are probably not doing it right. You may be over pulling. If your shot will not go off, you have lost tension. Let down and reset.

Do not over complicate the feel just push and pull. Practice this on a blank bale until you get it down. Then practice it on a target at close distances until you can forget about it and allow it to naturally happen. Then move to your normal distances and go for it.

If you need a visual aid go to www.archeryhistory.com and click on “archers” at the top of the page is a video of Terry Ragsdale and Eric Hall in a shoot off in Australia 1985. Terry, in my opinion, is the model by which all form should be judged. In the video, he exhibits flawless form and perfect shot execution. Grab the 20meg file. It will take a while, but it is worth it.

George Ryals IV is a top professional archer and author

Used by permission

Giving and Taking Archery Advice

Preparing to Shoot the MSAA Indoor 

Is that really a target?

I recently had a bout with over aiming that took me a month to cure. I cured this horrid condition with one simple thought - 'blank bail'. 

Over the past several years I have worked on the mechanical form elements that go into shooting the bow, you know, the things we all hear about like front shoulder down, back arm at shoulder height, and 'watch how you are gripping it'. Lately I've made the admission that I'm satisfied with my form and want to work strictly on aiming. I understand that some people never take the leap where they are saying to themselves that their form is complete and it is time to work on just aiming. These shooters are still thinking (at some level) about their form execution even on the tournament line - and the surprising thing is that this works for quite a few of the shooters like this. I also know people who aim, aim, aim and tear through the shot. Seems to me that these kinds of shooters have the ultimate confidence in their back tension execution and tend to become the best shooters amongst us. 

The other day I realized that for myself the aim, aim, aim approach is simply too un-nerving. I found myself fighting to hold and tensing up when I drifted. Not being relaxed when shooting a bow causes many bad things to happen, sometimes seemingly unexplainable things, but the end result is always the same - low scores and frustration. What got me jumping the other night and has me a little pumped (only another archer would understand this) is that the target is simply not the issue, and is forever a blank bail. To my new way of thinking this is because it is the releasing of the arrow that gives up the real joy of target shooting. To me there is nothing more satisfying than a simple and clean release, a release that is relaxed and that is a surprise. Where the arrow goes is not the point - how it felt when it left to go there is.

Great thing about this is that one does come before the other (no chicken and the egg controversy here) and so therefore the first does serve up the second. If you are enjoying the shoot, the release, and the day, your arrows are hitting the target right where you want them to.

I also think and want to caution that some competitive tension is required to shoot well. This competitive tension in my opinion keeps a shooter focused over the long haul of a shoot and helps to keep the dot a little closer to the middle. So the next time when you are on the line and feeling tense do not try to conquer it, use the tension to focus, add the tension to your arsenal. Chances are only a fraction of your competition has harnessed the tension and knows how to use it, join them and your scores will most likely improve. But the competitive tension does